Permatex 80037 Valve Grinding Compound, 3 oz.

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐The Permatex 80037 Valve Grinding Compound is a reliable and essential product for anyone involved in valve maintenance and engine repair.Pros:1. Versatile Use: This valve grinding compound is suitable for a wide range of applications, including valve lapping, grinding, and seating.2. Effective Abrasive: The compound contains a high-quality abrasive that helps in removing burrs, surface defects, and carbon deposits, ensuring optimal valve performance.3. Easy Application: The user-friendly 3 oz. container makes it easy to apply and control the amount of compound used, preventing wastage.4. Helps Prevent Leaks: Proper valve maintenance is crucial for preventing leaks and ensuring a tight seal in engines, and this compound aids in achieving that.5. Trusted Brand: Permatex is a well-respected brand known for producing high-quality automotive maintenance products, providing peace of mind.Cons:1. Not a Complete Solution: While this valve grinding compound is essential for valve maintenance, it’s just one part of the process. Proper knowledge and tools are required for effective use.In summary, the Permatex 80037 Valve Grinding Compound is an indispensable tool for those involved in engine and valve maintenance. It’s versatile, effective, and easy to apply, helping you achieve proper valve seating and prevent leaks. With Permatex’s reputation for quality, you can trust this compound to deliver consistent results. Keep in mind that it’s a specialized product and requires knowledge of valve maintenance procedures. Highly recommended for automotive enthusiasts and professionals who want to ensure their engine’s valves perform at their best.

This comes in handy when I seat the valves in small engines.

I used this to lap intake and exhaust valves on a kawasaki mower engine. The seats were okay, but lots of black soot all over the valves. The first thing I did was cleaned the cylinder head completely with a brass wire wheel and some solvent. I found that diesel fuel works pretty good to loosen up all that black soot before using the wire wheel. Once it was all cleaned up, I removed each valves and MARKED THEM...(this is important as the intake and exhaust valves need to go back to their original position...don't switch them up...it's just a good practice...sometimes the intake aluminum and the the exhaust is steel. And sometimes they can be slightly different dimensions. So mark them when you remove them so you know where they go back in. I used a simple manual "spinner" lapping tool with the suction cup. You only need to use a little lapping compound. Don't go crazy trying to press hard while you rotate and grind the valve to the seat. Even slight pressure is best. After several rotations, use a rag and look at both the valve and the seat to see how much work you have removed. You really only need to remove a very small amount of metal. When the valve and seats look like new metal bright and shiny in a perfect circle of lapping, you are done. Now, this is the MOST important part. Remove ALL lapping compound..clean everything. especially the valve guides. You don not want this abrasive lapping compound left in the cylinder head. I used simple water and liquid soap...and then I use compressed air dry it ..and the do another soap and water wash to remove any trace amounts of lappng compound. I also use a small amount of motor oil to lube the valves before dropping it back into the valve guides.

This lapping compound worked great. It broke down smoothly as you lap.Would definatley recommend this roduct.

If you've watched YouTube videos on how to sharpen your push mower blade, you've come to the right place.I was given a beat up push mower last year and with the spring finally here, I decided to recondition the push mower for the season. To be honest, I don't know how much this product played a role, but as you can see in the pictures, there is a noticeable improvement between before and after. While I was at it, I also cleaned and greased all the gears.Just one word of caution. Many people in the YouTube videos are using a plug-in drill to spin the blade to sharpen it. The only drill that I have is battery powered and it worked fine. However, the battery over heated after a few minutes of use. Fortunately, the battery didn't die from it and I was able to recharge it after cooling it off. Some videos will say to run it for 10 minutes. Unless you have a plug-in drill, I highly doubt that a battery powered drill will be able to spin the blade for that long.Good luck.

This is the right stuff for lapping. Smooth and simple and easy. Just take your time and with ease you’ll have your valves lapped in no time.

I finally ran out of my last small tube of valve grind paste after many engines useage, even though it had dried up it still worked with a bit of water,,got a 5.5 hp tiller engine back up and running great again,,I use a car tire valve stem I sand Flatt on the base and stick it in a drill hold down on top of valve,,works better then the stupid hand tool, and just grind generously by varied rotation of the flywheel to get that perfect grind and seal, as long as the valves aren't locked up on the guide this method works without having to remove the Spring on these small engines,,tested water tight and it's back running like new

Factory quality highly recommend